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París Av. 3

La provocación

We talked for 5 minutes, in honour of which he invited to another beer and a bag of peanuts, to recover his reflexes. 20 minutes after listening to him recall his 53 years of misbehaviours, exploits and the struggles of someone who has lived by what he learned from the corns of others and not from their books, and who with grizzled cunning defends as an undeniable prerogative the therapeutic beer before paying food and debts, came the two quick trips to the potty and the silences that remind us to look at the clock and the cloudy midday sky, in presage of the tainted pant rolls from the puddles the cement refuses to drink. We say goodbye with that grateful handshake from the quick fraternity of foam moustaches and the luck of having run into a “good person”, a circumstance that is not immune to the fever that sweats these sidewalks: When will you come by again; ´diay´, I don’t know, when I do come by again. Goodbye.

Intentional visits are justified with a ‘no choice’ or ‘look for it in Chepe Centro, there you will find it’; because despite the nature of that vanishing place, the city of San José remains the most diverse collection centre of supplies and services in the country, in which hundreds of thousands make a living, produce their livelihood or take advantage of it as the great transit station to anywhere; a place resorted to with professed faith and anticipated strain.

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autoinmune disorder

And perhaps it is these fortuitous encounters that soften the rootlessness of her personality of chronic transit, that which makes her a place where apparently not much happens, where everything seems unimportant but not for that reason irrelevant because it is not visited to happen, it is crossed to happen somewhere else.

Not so, that bench stays there, the bar stays there, Chepe doesn’t leave Chepe, nor does turn off the light at 10 o’clock and go to sleep. Prejudiced and apparent, this impression is a showcase construction, fantasized through windshields, perhaps emotionally motivated by the remoteness of Chepe Centro to mythologized ideals of the city, by aspirational manias of consumption models that for certain groups of short feet and wide voices this city centre does not provide; there are desires that Chepe does not satisfy and that is resented by attacking its memory. Perhaps the worst thing that can happen to a space is to name it with a deep desire to forget, to dance with it by turning our backs on it; and this impulse of inconsequentiality is perhaps a symptom of an evident evil in the idleness of our rulers, the disinterest of the civil servants, the urge to import needs from other time zones; everyone knows that forgetting excuses them, it does not ask for receipts from history. To attack the spaces of memory, to stop articulating or producing them may be a mere generational sneeze or a lamentable rattle to uprooting: without memory, there is no here, and without here there is no us. The here is to remember the present, so as not to import memories, so as not to envy in frustration the today of others.

Despite the few moulds that noisily annul it in contempt, there is that majority that pumps the veins of its sidewalks, immune to rancour, to its suggested invisibility, the people who breathe shops, schools, parks, food, loves and crimes, those who make in it their leisure, fulfil aspirations and mourn losses and disappointments. Chepe works, eats, shits, dances, and rests, but does not sleep, even if they ruminate on the contrary.

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